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John Dory w/braised and smoked baby artichokes, green garlic and kombu broth at Madrona Manor in Healdsburg

A Japanese sensibility permeates the food at the Victorian-era Madrona Manor

A Japanese sensibility permeates the food at the Victorian-era Madrona Manor

Braised Pork Cheeks at Sierra Mar in Big Sur

Favorite dishes from Big Sur to Healdsburg

This week I traveled as far south as Big Sur, where I helped judge a chef’s cooking contest using mushrooms at the Ventana Inn, and as far north as Healdsburg, where I went to Mark and Terry …

Uni w/kombu broth, ribbons of salsify, purple viola, yellow mustard flowers and wasabi at Madrona Manor in Healdsburg

A Japanese sensibility permeates the food at the Victorian-era Madrona Manor

Uni w/kombu broth, ribbons of salsify, purple viola, yellow mustard flowers and wasabi at Madrona Manor in Healdsburg

Wild hare sausage and rack w/barley-miso sauce at Madrona Manor in Healdsburg

A Japanese sensibility permeates the food at the Victorian-era Madrona Manor

What has impressed me about Jesse Mallgren at Madrona Manor in Healdsburg is how he continues to evolve as a chef.

Sturgeon w/Smoked Green Garlic and Tokyo Turnips at Sons & Daughters

Upgrading the stars at Sons & Daughters

Sturgeon w/Smoked Green Garlic and Tokyo Turnips at Sons & Daughters

Lamb w/baby fennel, lentils, green garlic relish at Haven in Oakland

Haven: A look at another chapter in the Daniel Patterson empire

Lamb w/baby fennel, lentils, green garlic relish at Haven in Oakland

Local Sardines on garlic toast w/crushed avocado and pickled ramp salsa

Serendipity uncovers dining discoveries at Firefly, Molina and Super Duper

Local Sardines on garlic toast w/crushed avocado and pickled ramp salsa

Thomas Keller's Supreme of California Squab w/Yountville figs, corn pudding and Australian black truffles » Memorable scenes and photos from Sunday’s charity dinner, featuring all the Bay Area four-star chefs

Memorable scenes and photos from Sunday’s charity dinner, featuring all the Bay Area four-star chefs

Thomas Keller's Supreme of California Squab w/Yountville figs, corn pudding and Australian black truffles » Memorable scenes and photos from Sunday’s charity dinner, featuring all the Bay Area four-star chefs

Inside Scoop SF » Memorable scenes and photos from Sunday’s charity dinner, featuring all the Bay Area four-star chefs

Memorable scenes and photos from Sunday’s charity dinner, featuring all the Bay Area four-star chefs

Inside Scoop SF » Memorable scenes and photos from Sunday’s charity dinner, featuring all the Bay Area four-star chefs

Crudo, Ceviche, and More: The New Wave of Raw Seafood in New York

At Costata, fluke crudo comes with tomato confit, olives, and basil.

"Warm Dish" w/ Zuwai Gani Crab and Hokkaido kondu dash broth at Kusakabe  in SF

Sushi doesn’t get any better than at Kusakabe

"Warm Dish" w/ Zuwai Gani Crab and Hokkaido kondu dash broth at Kusakabe in SF

Gumbo at Parish Cafe in Healdsburg

Gumbo at Parish Cafe in Healdsburg

The John Dory entree at The Sea restaurant in Palo Alto, Calif., is seen on Saturday, January 12th, 2013. Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

Sea by Alexander's missing the wave

The John Dory entree at The Sea restaurant in Palo Alto, Calif., is seen on Saturday, January Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

Olive Oil poached cod w/za'atar and cilantro sauce at Daniel in NYC

Restaurant Review: Daniel on the Upper East Side

Olive oil-poached cod, seasoned with za’atar and a bright cilantro sauce, from Daniel.

Beet-cured ocean trout at Iyasare. Photo: John Storey / Special To The Chronicle / ONLINE_YES

Iyasare

The beet-cured ocean trout appeals to many senses at Iyasare in Berkeley

Pureed Green Garlic Soup w/Pickled Fennel, Fresh Herbs and Flowers at Aster in SF

Great soups from Aster, BDK and more

Pureed Green Garlic Soup w/Pickled Fennel, Fresh Herbs and Flowers at Aster in SF

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