Explore Surfing Bodyboarding, Emotion and more!

Wild Thing explained that surfing was a form of meditation. When you went surfing, you showed respect for the gods because you showed respect for nature: wind and water. But especially the moon, who directed the tides. The moon was the most insanely cool of all the gods, and when you surfed, it was like a moon prayer....(from 'Apollo's Ghost,' novel by Michael Poore. see mikepoorehome.net )

Pinterest • The world’s catalogue of ideas