How many bad fries have you had in your life (I’m not even finishing that with a question mark because you know the answer—it’s a lot). Fries used to be ridiculous. But things changed. We are living, now, in a golden age of fries. They’re good in delis and cocktail bars, at neighborhood spots and burger places. In San Francisco, at Charles Bililies’ souvlaki place called Souvla, the fries are amazing.