The "Goldilocks zone" for sartorial transgression reminds me of Brecht his distancing effect in theater. This aiming at a postponed identification as opposed to an automatic one raises consciousness. It calls into remembrance that there is no pure and purely expressive image, which opens up space for both critical and personal usage of stylistic elements.
Stormé DeLarverie (1920 - 2014) the Black #butch #lesbian who was rumoured to have kicked off and started the #Stonewall riots. She was reported to have shouted “Why don’t you guys do something?” as she was manhandled into the police wagon handcuffed and this sparked the fight back. In the 1950s and 60’s she was a drag king performer in the Jewel Box revue. Michelle Parkerson made a documentary about her called Stormé: The Lady of the Jewel Box. photo Diane Arbus