Paul Poiret, circa 1925. Model HONG KONG DRESS, silk embroidered chain stitch small floral motifs repeated in navy, green, and off-white. Model name and date in ink carried by Denise Poiret sewn to a piece of silk inside the hem. Provenance: personal wardrobe of Denise Boulet-Poiret; collection of son Colin Poiret, remained with his descendants.
Detail of the Madeleine Vionnet evening gown. In 1918 Vionnet hired Marie-Louise Favot. As a dressmaker and trained artist, Favot designed all of Vionnet's embroidery motifs. Though the motifs were designed in-house, the actual work was contracted out to Michonet, a Parisian embroidery firm founded in 1858. Michonet was later bought by Albert Lesage.
“Delphos” gown, Fortuny, Venice, ca. 1910. Tea pink pleated silk with clear beads across shoulders, around armholes, and down side seams. Three hand-decorated strips of fabric, or sashes, which vary in width
Pleated silk Delphos dress, early 20th century. Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949) created this Greek-inspired fashion in 1906, making one and two-piece versions over his long career as a designer and inventor in Venice. His lustrous silk was hand-dyed using natural vegetable extracts resulting in garments in subtle shades of pink, blue, green, rust and gold. He pleated the fabric into tiny pleats, using a secret process he patented in 1909.