House tour: the tattoo-walled, French Riviera home of artist Jean Cocteau: Drawing directly on the walls without preliminary sketches, Cocteau displaced neither furniture nor fixture, often painting over objects where they lay. A lampshade is graffitied with effigies. The belly of one nude seems pregnant with books. Everywhere, his gesture is archly confident, his touch whimsical but self-assured. Erotic, naive, it’s like living inside a giant sketchpad.